GSM stands for grams per square metre. It is the weight of one square metre of fabric, and it is the most honest number you can put on a garment. A higher GSM means more cotton in the same area, so a heavier, denser, longer-lasting piece. It is the number Phrase Studios designs every piece around.
From the studio. "We start every piece with the weight. Set the GSM first, then design the garment around it. Most brands do it the other way around, and then the weight is just whatever is cheapest to hit the price. We treat it as the first decision, not the last."
What the numbers mean
For cotton jersey and fleece the rough ranges are: under 180 GSM is lightweight, the weight of a cheap tee that goes thin after a few washes. 180 to 280 GSM is the mid-range where most high-street tees and hoodies sit. 280 to 350 GSM is heavyweight, where a tee feels structured and a hoodie feels solid. Above 350 GSM is premium heavyweight, rare on the high street because the cotton cost is real. Phrase's heavy pieces sit at the top of this range.
"There is no trick to GSM. You cannot fake weight. A 400 GSM piece has roughly twice as much cotton as a 200 GSM piece in the same area. You feel it in the hand, and you feel it in the third year you wear it."
The Resurge example
The clearest example in the catalogue is the Resurge Jean in 420 GSM cotton. That weight is what lets the jeans be washed down and hand-repaired without falling apart, and it is the reason the piece feels built rather than bought. A lighter denim would not survive the same finishing.
Why weight is not the whole story
GSM tells you how much cotton is there, not how good that cotton is. A heavy fabric made from short, cheap fibres will still pill and lose its shape. Weight has to go together with fibre quality, the density of the knit or weave, and the construction. But of all the numbers a brand could show you, GSM is the hardest to fake, and that is exactly why most brands do not print it. Phrase does.
For a deeper read on how a heavy fabric behaves over years of wear, read how raw denim ages. To see how the studio's weight choices play out piece by piece, the full catalogue shows the GSM where it counts.
Frequently asked questions
What does GSM mean in clothing?
GSM stands for grams per square metre, the weight of one square metre of fabric. A higher GSM means more cotton in the same area, so a heavier, denser, longer-lasting garment.
What is a good GSM for a hoodie or tee?
Most high-street tees and hoodies sit at 180 to 280 GSM. Heavyweight starts around 280 to 350 GSM, and premium heavyweight is above 350 GSM, where the cotton cost is real and the piece feels structured.
Is a higher GSM always better?
Not on its own. GSM tells you how much cotton is there, not how good it is. Weight has to go together with fibre quality, the density of the knit or weave, and the construction, but it is the hardest number to fake.